Vegetable
crops can be protected from late-season freeze events.
Wind
machines and heaters are expensive pieces of equipment used by large commercial
orchards to combat spring frosts and freezes, but may not be economical for
some vegetable growers. Luckily, many of the same techniques for extending the
early season can be used for extending the late season for these crops.
A “water-soaked” appearance is a common identifier of freeze damage on fruiting vegetables. These decorative gourds will still harden off, but the discoloration is permanent. |
How to tell if you have frost-damaged
vegetables
If
you see that your land has some frost on it, it’s best to check the plants and
fruit twice after the sun warms them up. Freeze-killed leaves will at first
turn brown and look somewhat transparent as they thaw – a term generally
referred to as “water-soaked.” Once dry, they may curl up and become brittle.
Check once more well after thaw to see if more leaves have turned brown as this
is a sign that the vascular tissue of the plant was freeze-damaged as well.
After thaw, the marketable part of the plant may also show signs of damage if
it received any.
A
“water-soaked” appearance is a common identifier of freeze damage on fruiting
vegetables. These decorative gourds will still harden off, but the
discoloration is permanent. Photo credit: Ben Phillips, MSU Extension
The
list below is adapted from Purdue Extension Bulletin HO-203 and describes what
to look for in freeze-damaged vegetables. For positive identification of
suspected freeze damage, find an expert like a Regional Horticulture Specialist
with the University of Missouri. Taking a photo and sending by e-mail is a real
time saver these days.
•Beets:
External and internal water-soaking; sometimes blackening of conducting tissue.
•Broccoli:
The youngest florets in the center of the curd are most sensitive to freezing
injury. They turn brown and give off strong odors upon thawing.
•Cabbage:
Leaves become water-soaked, translucent and limp upon thawing; epidermis
separates.
•Carrots:
Blistered appearance, jagged length-wise cracks. Interior becomes water-soaked
and darkened upon thawing.
•Cauliflower:
Curds turn brown and have a strong off-odor when cooked.
•Celery:
Leaves and petioles appear wilted and water-soaked upon thawing. Petioles
freeze more readily than leaves.
•Cucumbers:
Transparent, water-soaked appearance in cross section, just under the skin.
•Garlic:
Thawed cloves appear grayish-yellow and water-soaked.
•Lettuce:
Blistering; dead cells of the separated epidermis on outer leaves become tan;
increased susceptibility to physical damage and decay.
•Onions:
Thawed bulbs are soft, grayish-yellow and water-soaked in cross section; often
limited to individual scales.
•Peppers:
Dead, water-soaked tissue in part or all of pericarp surface; pitting,
shriveling, and decay follow thawing.
•Potatoes:
Freezing injury may not be externally evident, but shows as gray or bluish-gray
patches beneath the skin. Thawed tubers become soft and watery.
•Pumpkins:
Water-soaked spots on upper surface of fruit that soften the rind. Badly
damaged fruit will eventually collapse in on itself.
•Radishes:
Thawed tissues appear translucent; roots soften and shrivel.
•Squash:
Water-soaked spots on upper surface of fruit. Ornamental and winter squashes
may still harden, but others will soften and rot.
•Sweet
corn: Reduced ear size and weight with shriveled kernels. Ears can take a
“bar-bell” shape if they are still developing.
•Sweet
potatoes: A yellowish-brown discoloration of the vascular ring and a
yellowish-green, water-soaked appearance of other tissues. Roots soften and
become very susceptible to decay.
•Tomatoes:
Water-soaked and soft upon thawing. In partially frozen fruits, the margin
between healthy and dead tissue is distinct, especially in green fruits.
•Turnips:
Small water-soaked spots or pitting on the surface. Injured tissues appear tan
or gray and give off an objectionable odor.
Mitigating freeze damage on vegetables
One
of the amazing properties of water is that as it freezes, it releases a small
amount of heat to its surrounding environment. So, one active measure that can
be taken to reduce freeze damage on plant tissue is to apply consistent canopy
irrigation at a low spray rate to keep a light film of water on the plants
during the time of freeze potential. As the water freezes, it will keep the
plant tissue from dipping below the freeze point.
A
preventative freeze method can be to irrigate the soil around the plants during
the day to absorb heat from the sun. This works best in dark-colored,
low-porosity soils with high water-holding capacity (something positive
regarding Missouri clay for once!). The heat held in the water between soil
particles will slowly radiate up into the atmosphere, keeping the plants above
freezing overnight. Further, supported or floating row covers made of clear or
black polyethylene or polypropylene plastic can be used to create an insulated
barrier overnight, which can protect vegetables down to 28 degrees Fahrenheit,
depending on the weight of the row cover.
However,
important research in strawberries offers some valuable crossover information.
In a trial across 20 freeze events in Florida, strawberry fields treated with a
combination of canopy irrigation and row covers experienced a higher survival
of flowers and greater fruit production than fields treated with just canopy
irrigation or row covers alone.
References
•Effects
of Cold Weather on Horticultural Plants in Indiana, Purdue University
Cooperative Extension Service
•Understanding
Frost (pdf), Cornell Cooperative Extension
•Frost
protection: fundamentals, practice and economics (pdf), Food and Agriculture
Organization of the United Nations
•Irrigation
Method and Rowcover Use for Strawberry Freeze Protection, Journal of the
American Society for Horticultural Science
•Row
Covers for Commercial Vegetable Culture in Florida (pdf), University of Florida
Extension
(This article was published by Michigan
State University Extension. Adapted by James Quinn for University of Missouri,
October 2013)
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